UKRAINIAN EMBROIDERY IN CLOTHES OF THE 70S OF THE XX CENTURY

Abstract

The article is dedicated to a bad-studied problem in domestic science related to the industrial production of clothing and the use of Ukrainian embroidery. A significant contribution to the development of traditional Ukrainian clothing and decoration was made by fashion designers of the Kyiv House of Fashion Models (KНFM), which began its activity in 1944. Thanks to specialist artists, in difficult conditions, modern models of that time were developed based on Ukrainian traditional clothing. The outfits were created in the light industry and “Ukrkhudozhprom”.

It is noted that Ukrainian embroidery was an integral part of Ukrainian clothing, and, over time, industry. In Kyiv, in June 1970, the All-Union Institute of Assortment of Products of the Ministry of Light Industry of the Ukrainian SSR held an artistic and technical council to inspect youth fashion. The members of the Artistic and Technical Council reviewed the models proposed by 34 sewing enterprises and 6 Model Houses of Ukraine. The holding of this event made it possible to introduce the fashion trends of the decade in life.

The artists of the Kyiv House of Fashion Models actively introduced and used traditional national clothing elements, combining elements of modern fashion of the time. Analyzing the state of embroidery and the use of traditional Ukrainian cut in modern clothes of the 70s of the twentieth century in KНFM, we can note that in youth clothes, fashion designers used traditional cut, embroidery, decor, similar to the national costumes of all regions of Ukraine. Models of elongated women's dresses made of woolen fabrics changed, in girls' coarse calico sets a shirt cut with a stand-up collar and short sleeves prevailed. The directions of the cut were maintained in the length of the blouses to the waist, with the use of folk motifs of Ukrainian embroidery. Straight and extended skirts to the bottom emphasized the waist and were gathered on an elastic band, belt or bodice. The coat was created on the basis of the cut of the Ukrainian scrolls in a straight silhouette with set-in sleeves, the hood passed into a collar with tassels and was also decorated based on elements of Ukrainian folk embroidery, which was carried out with a chain stitch in black, red, yellow and green colors.

Industrial production demonstrated a high level of fashion design. Fashion shows, which were held by Model Houses twice a year, served as a source of inspiration for specialists of Ukrainian light industry enterprises and Ukrkhudozhprom. The implementation of thematic and compositionally completed creative projects by the enterprises guided and coordinated the activities of the garment, textile, knitwear industry. The organization of labor at all stages of production emphasizes the relevance of defining the problem, due to the need to preserve Ukrainian authenticity, research and popularize the features of creating modern products in the direction of artistic crafts, such as artistic embroidery, which is the oldest type of folk art.