Jewelry in the Art Nouveau style as a tool for forming Sarah Bernard's stage image

  • Yuliia ROMANENKOVA Borys Grinchenko Kyiv University
Keywords: jewelry art, Sarah Bernard, René Lalique, Alphonse Mucha, Georges Fouquet, brooch, bracelet, diadem, theater, stage

Abstract

Modern is a challenge and a contrast. And in jewelry it is more expressive than in other types of art, more characteristic. For Sarah Bernard, the main thing was the image created by jewelry. It is almost impossible to imagine Sarah Bernard's jewelry on someone else – they were created for her, for her and served her. Therefore, the actress can be fully included in the history of jewelry art as one of the creators of jewelry Art Nouveau, and René Lalique, Georges Fouquet, and Alphonse Mucha can be counted among the ranks of influential personalities and co-authors of the artistic microcosm of France at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. Sarah Bernard embodied the idea of a perfect acting game, Fouquet and Lalique jewelry embodied the idea of a unique jewelry masterpiece, which prompted the synthesis of these images into one common one, and it came out very organically. Sarah Bernard was a co-author of jewelers in the creation of jewelry: she participated in the development of the design (Madame Bernard was a talented sculptor), was a customer and an inspiration, for which she is often called the muse of famous jewelers. But the jewelers were also co-authors of the stage image created by Sarah – it is inseparable from the jewelry miracles with which the actress complemented her extraordinary costumes. Jewels made it possible to make the image brighter, make it shine, and conveyed the spirit of the era. Sara, who was famous as the owner of many expensive unique jewels, did not make owning them an end in themselves – she used them as a tool for her image formation, they helped her create herself. The actress appreciated the image created by jewelry, the colors it created in the viewer's imagination, its design, concept, and the expensiveness of materials receded into the background. The inherent modernity of experiments with the synthesis of previously incompatible materials, the value of precious stones and metals was sacrificed in favor of the colors of the image, which is sometimes achieved more easily with the help of glass or bone. And Sarah embodied all these experiments both on stage and in everyday life.

References

1. Bernhardt S. Ma double vie: Paris: Nabu Press, 2014. 658 р.
2. Brunhammer Y. Art Deco Style. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1984. 175 р.
3. Brunhammer Y. Jewels of Lalique. Paris: Flammarion, 1999. 224 р.
4. Brunhammer Y. Exposition René Lalique : Exhibition at the Luxembourg museum in Paris: Musée du Luxembourg, 2007. 72 p.
5. Cappellieri A. Jewellery. From Art Nouveau to 3D Printing. N Lausanne: Skira, 2018. 256 p.
6. Lefkowith C.M. The art of René Lalique. Warszawa: Stylissimo, 2010. 486 p.
7. Marcilhac F. René Lalique. Catalogue raisonné de l' œuvre de verre (3° édi). Paris: Ed. de l'Amateur. 2004. 1064 p.
8. Posseme E. Art Deco Jewelry: Modernist Masterworks and their Makers. London: Thames&Hudson, 2009. 256 p.
9. Romanenkova J., Bratus I., Gunka A. Historical jewels in the museums of the world. Agathos. 2020. 11 (1). Pp. 132-144.
10. Rose C. Art Nouveau Fashion. London: V&A Publishing, 2014. 144 p.
Published
2023-12-27
Section
VISUAL ART PRACTICES

Most read articles by the same author(s)